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Satin Stitch is both a favorite and least favorite stitch for filling in shapes. On one hand, satin stitch can create a smooth block of color with a lovely satin-like finish. On the other hand, satin stitch can be finicky and frustrating with the end result not always as smooth and silky as it should be. Don’t let that stop you from learning satin stitch though! If you follow the steps below, read all the tips, and give yourself time to practice, you’ll soon be satin stitching like a pro.

Satin stitch can be used to fill in any shape. For practice purposes, let’s start with something easy like a square. Begin by bringing your needle and thread up on the edge of the square. I always start my satin stitch in the middle of the shape. For uniform shapes such as squares, starting in the middle is not as critical, but when filling non-uniform shapes it helps keep the stitches straight. For this reason, it’s a good general practice to adopt.

To make the first stitch, bring the needle back down directly across from where it came up. But wait! Before you make that first stitch, be sure it is absolutely straight. This stitch will be the foundation from which all the others are worked and if it’s slanted all the rest of the stitches will be slanted as well. The easiest way to ensure the stitch is straight is to stretch the thread across the shape and adjust it until it’s level before inserting the needle.

To make the second stitch, bring the needle back up right next to where you started the first stitch. The key to a smooth satin stitch is positioning the stitches close together without overlapping.

Bring the needle down next to the first stitch.

Continue in this fashion until you reach the bottom of the shape. Now, come back up to where you first started and stitch the top half.

A few tips for a successful satin stitch:

• Keep the stitches straight, parallel, and close together, while making sure they don’t overlap.
• If you’re working with a multi-strand embroidery floss, be sure to keep the strands smooth and flat and not twisted.
• Be careful not to pull the stitches too tight or the fabric will pucker and the shape will become distorted.
• Always stitch to the outside edge of the drawn line.
• Outline the shape with back or split stitch for a more even edge. *(See below for instructions)

Most important, don’t stress if your satin stitch isn’t perfect. The edges might be a little uneven and the finish not quite as satin-like as you would like. It’s not an easy stitch and as you can see by my example below, even after years of practice, my satin stitch is not even close to perfect. In the end, it’s not really a big deal. Satin stitch is most often used to fill smaller shapes that are part of a bigger pattern and the small imperfections are barely noticeable when all is said and done.

Satin Stitch Outline

A quick trick for creating smooth edges is to outline the shape with back or split stitch and then work the satin stitch over the top of the outline. It’s a little more work, but that few minutes you spend outlining can make a huge difference in the end result. As a general rule, I use half the number of floss strands to outline as to work the satin stitch. The reason for this is so I don’t create a raised edge around the shape.

The example below uses two strands of floss to outline the square in backstitch and four strands to work the satin stitch over the top.

The finished shape is still not perfect but is noticeably more even around the edges. I find this method most helpful when filling in larger shapes or those with jagged or uneven edges.

Satin Stitch for Irregular Shapes

Now that you’ve gotten the basic method down, I’m going to quickly show you how to use satin stitch to fill in a less uniform shape. Many of my State Embroidery Patterns contain a small heart filled with satin stitch, so we’ll try a heart. My heart is hand-drawn which means it’s not perfectly symmetrical. No big deal. Follow the same procedure as above: start in the middle of the shape, work down to the bottom, then come back to the middle and work up until you reach the point where the two bumps meet.

Now, we’re going to fill in the heart bumps one at a time. Start on one side and stitch up the edges of the bump until you reach the top.

Repeat the procedure on the other side, and you have yourself a heart! As you can see, non-uniform shapes are not really any more difficult than uniform shapes. Sometimes you simply need to break the shape up into sections and work them one at a time.

Satin Stitch Patterns

Satin stitch can be used in so many ways! The Desert Garden Pattern uses it to create a gorgeous multi-colored Aloe plant.

The Vintage Trailer Winter Mountains Pattern uses satin stitch for the layer of snow on the mountains.

And the US Travel Map utilizes it as the sole stitch for creating a colorful and interesting map. By alternating the direction of the stitches on the map a patchwork of colors emerges.

Get out there and start stitching!

Basic embroidery stitches are the backbone of all embroidery stitches. Once you master the basics, the rest is easy. The most basic of the stitches are called line stitches. They are – you guessed it – worked along a line! The line can be straight, curved, angular, or just about any other shape.

Basic line stitches are nearly universally present in all embroidery patterns. Whether you’re working on a simple or elaborate pattern, chances are, at least one basic line stitch will be present. Fortunately, line stitches are easy to learn and simple to master. Let’s start with the four most common basic embroidery stitches.

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Running Stitch

Of all the basic embroidery stitches, running stitch is the easiest to master. This quick stitch is perfect for borders and outlines. You can change the look by lengthening or shortening the stitches.

Start by making a single stitch. Next, move the needle one stitch length away and make another stitch. Try to keep the spaces the same length as the stitch. Follow this pattern until you have a line of stitches with spaces between.

You can also create running stitch with an alternate method that is reminiscent of hand sewing. Instead of making each stitch separately, weave the needle in and out of the fabric several times before pulling it all the way through. This method is much quicker, but it can sometimes be harder to make uniform stitches. Try both and see which you prefer.

Back Stitch

Back stitch is similar to running stitch except it creates a solid line. Depending on what kind of thread you use, it can make delicate or heavy lines. Back stitch is commonly used for outlines and borders but it’s also great for embroidering text or filling in small spaces.

Begin by bringing the thread up through the fabric one stitch length away from the starting point. Now, go back and bring the needle down at the beginning. Think of it as stitching in reverse.

The next stitch is made in the same manner. Come up one stitch length away from the previous stitch and bring the needle down at the end of the previous stitch. Once you get the hang of it this stitch becomes almost like second nature.

Split Stitch

Split stitch also creates a solid line, but with a bit of added texture. I use split stitch when I want a to add something extra to my outlines. Trees, leaves, flower petals, and anything else that could benefit from extra texture look great with split stitch. Varying the stitch length will result in different looks. Small stitches give a nubby texture while long stitches look more like a braid.

Begin by making a single stitch. Now, bring the thread up in the middle of the stitch you just made.

Pull the thread all the way through and make another stitch. Once again, bring the needle up in the middle of the previous stitch. That’s it!

Stem Stitch

Stem stitch is similar to split stitch except instead of coming up in the middle of the stitch, you come up next to it. The result is a twisted stitch that turns corners beautifully and makes excellent lettering. Stem stitch can also be worked in rows or a continuous circular to create an interesting filler.

There are two popular ways to work stem stitch. Let’s start with the method that is most similar to split stitch. First, make a single stitch. Without pulling the thread all the way through, bring the needle back up halfway between two points and just above the line. If you’re following the diagram, come up at A, go down at B, and back up at C. Remember that C is just above the line. Be sure to keep the working thread below the line.

After a few stitches, you will see the twisted line form.

The second method is the sewing method. The first method brings the needle all the way into the fabric and then back up in a different spot. The sewing method has you insert the needle one stitch length away and then angle it backward and bring it back up just above the line. Like with the first method, the needle comes out about halfway between the points and a little above the line.

For most people, one method comes more naturally than the other. I like to use the first method for times when I need small stitches – such as when embroidering letters – and the second method for longer stitches on larger objects. Give both a try and see which one works best for you.

Basic Line Stitch Patterns

All of the Wandering Threads patterns contain at least one of the basic line stitches. Running Stitch is used to create ribs on the cactus in the Saguaro National Park Pattern.

Back stitch is used to outline all the State and State Flower Patterns as well as for some of the letterings in the National Park Patterns. Back stitch is also great for flowers and stems such as the ones found in the Wildflower Bouquet Pattern.

Split Stitch can be found in many of the patterns with trees and leaves. These trees in the Colorado State Pattern are worked with split stitch.

Stem Stitch is one of my favorites for curved lines. In fact, I like it so much that I’ve probably used it at least once in all of the Wandering Threads patterns! Most often stem stitch creates an outline like in the Yellowstone National Park Pattern. In this pattern, stem stitch is used to both outline and create the inner smoke of the Old Faithful Geyser.
Stem stitch is also an interesting filler stitch for curved shapes. The sun in the Iowa State Pattern features the twisted lines of stem stitch worked in rows.

With these four basic embroidery stitches, you can tackle nearly any pattern. Happy Stitching!